Alternatives to an Open Wood-Burning Fireplace
If your open fireplace is drafty, smoky or just not used, there are five common alternatives. Here is what each one does and what it needs from the chimney you already have.
Why people replace an open fireplace
An open masonry fireplace is a poor heater. Most of the heat goes up the flue, and the fire pulls warm room air up with it. People usually look for an alternative for one of three reasons: they want actual heat, they want less work, or the fireplace or chimney needs an expensive repair and they are weighing their options.
The five alternatives compared
The five alternatives differ most in how much heat they give and what they need from the chimney. Inserts give the most heat; electric units need no chimney at all.
| Option | Heat | Effort to use | What it needs from the chimney | Upkeep |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wood insert | High. A sealed firebox with a blower heats a large room or more. | You still buy, store and load wood. | A stainless steel liner from the insert to the top of the chimney, sized to the insert. | Yearly inspection and sweeping. |
| Gas insert | Medium to high, at the push of a button. | Very low. | A gas line and its own vent liner or liners run up the existing flue. | Yearly service and vent check. |
| Vented gas logs | Low. Mostly for appearance. | Very low. | A sound flue, and the damper fixed open while in use. | Yearly check of burner, logs and flue. |
| Pellet insert | High and steady, thermostat controlled. | Fill the hopper with pellets; needs electricity. | A small-diameter vent liner up the flue. | Regular ash removal, yearly service. |
| Electric insert | Low. A space heater with a flame effect. | None. | Nothing. The flue is sealed off. | Almost none. |
Option by option
Each option suits a different household, depending on whether you want heat, convenience, or only the look of a fire.
Wood insert
A wood insert is a steel or cast iron stove built to slide into the fireplace opening. It burns the same wood far more completely than an open fire. Models certified by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency meet federal emission limits, which also means less creosote. The insert must be connected to a liner that matches its outlet; venting an insert into an unlined or oversized masonry flue causes poor draft and heavy creosote.
Gas insert
A gas insert is a sealed unit with a glass front. Direct-vent models draw outside air down one liner and send exhaust up another, so they do not use room air. This is the usual choice for people who want heat without handling wood.
Gas log sets
Gas logs are ceramic logs over a burner placed in the existing firebox. Vented sets look the most like a wood fire but give little heat, because the damper stays open. Vent-free sets give more heat and need no flue, but they release their combustion products into the room, and whether they are allowed depends on local code. Check with your local building department before choosing vent-free.
Pellet insert
Pellet inserts burn compressed wood pellets fed automatically from a hopper. They give steady, controllable heat, but they need electricity to run and more frequent cleaning of the burn pot and ash pan.
Electric insert
An electric insert produces a light effect and some heat from an element and fan. It involves no combustion, so it needs no chimney. If you go this route, have the flue capped and sealed properly so the unused chimney does not let in water or animals.
Our opinion: how to choose
In our opinion the choice comes down to what you want from the fireplace: real heat, no work, or atmosphere.
- You want to heat with wood: a wood insert with a full liner.
- You want heat with no work: a direct-vent gas insert.
- You want the look of a fire a few evenings a year: vented gas logs.
- You want steady heat and do not have gas: a pellet insert.
- You want something in the opening and nothing to maintain: electric.
This section is our opinion, not a standard. The right answer also depends on the condition of your chimney, which is why any of these should start with an inspection. If the question is which liner a new appliance needs, see our chimney liner comparison.
Sources
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Burn Wise program, on certified wood-burning appliances and efficient burning.
- National Fire Protection Association, NFPA 211, on connecting appliances to chimneys and flue sizing.
Common questions
Can I put a wood stove insert into any fireplace?
Most masonry fireplaces can take an insert if the firebox is large enough and the chimney is sound. Factory-built metal fireplaces can only take inserts specifically listed for them. Either way the chimney needs inspecting first. The insert also has to fit the opening with the clearances its manufacturer requires.
Does a fireplace insert need a chimney liner?
Yes. An insert should be connected to a stainless steel liner that runs the full height of the chimney and matches the insert's flue outlet. Without it, draft is poor and creosote builds up quickly. The liner is also what lets the insert and flue be swept properly each year.
Are vent-free gas logs safe?
They are legal in many places and are built with an oxygen sensor that shuts them off, but they release moisture and combustion gases into the room, and some jurisdictions restrict or ban them. Check local code and the manufacturer's room-size limits.
Which fireplace alternative gives the most heat?
A wood insert or a pellet insert gives the most heat, followed by a direct-vent gas insert. All three are sealed units designed to heat a room. Vented gas logs and electric inserts give little heat and are chosen mainly for appearance and convenience.
Do I still need my chimney if I switch to an electric fireplace?
No. An electric insert involves no combustion and needs no flue. The unused chimney should still be capped and sealed properly so it does not let in rain or animals, and any furnace or water heater that shares the chimney still needs its own flue kept in good order.